Joining the glut of restaurants opening in Edinburgh this year, Sonder has taken up shop in the neglected Newington area of the city.
South Clerk Street was crying out for a good restaurant to join its ranks, and Sonder more than fits the bill. The menu is split into snacks, garden, sea, and land, with four dish options for each category.
Sharing is encouraged and we’re advised to order 2-3 dishes per person. Most dishes are on the light side, so I’d recommend going for 3 each.
From the snack selection, the succulent chicken wings (taken off the bone for fine dining style delicacy) are excellently matched with maple and a crunchy corn topping.
The garden section boasts some of the most adventurous dishes and the ricotta agnolotti with leeks, hazelnuts and whey is simple, fresh and tasty.
The rich mushroom dish with confit yolk and prunes is more unusual and all the better for it. It’s quickly earmarked as one of our favourite dishes.
This is followed by a clean dish of crab meat with daikon and nage split with coriander oil. This is the definite highlight, lifted to perfection by that vibrant herb oil.
The grouse special doesn’t quite hit the heights of the other dishes, but the meltingly soft lamb neck is deliciously hearty, even if the apricot compote was perhaps a little too sweet.
To finish, the beautifully subtle milk parfait with wildflower honey is a triumph. It’s only been open for a couple of weeks, but Sonder is exactly what the Southside needs: a clever yet simple menu, accessible prices, and a friendly atmosphere.
74-78 S Clerk Street, Edinburgh www.restaurant-sonder.com
