Smart, dark and atmospheric, One Devonshire Gardens has atmosphere in abundance. Any implied need to whisper quickly faded though as the conjoined rooms began to fill with chatter, while the friendly wait staff kept everything relaxed and comfortable.
My braised chicory starter had a light peppery taste, matched well with sweet parsnips, making for a light but tasty dish. My companion went for the scallops which were perfectly cooked, a strong indicator for the quality of seafood to come.
For mains, the fragrance of the curry on my cod dish was mouth watering and the taste certainly did not disappoint. The accompanying braised cauliflower gave crunch to the dish, while the golden raisins were like sweet little jewels scattered throughout.
My companion’s lemon sole was another example of fish cooked to perfection. The combination of sole, cabbage, parsnip, brown shrimp & beurre blanc was delicate, fresh and perfectly balanced, marking the dish out as the highlight of the meal.
Having both had a tiny bit of room left, we thought we’d better utilise it and turned our eyes to dessert. My Valrohna chocolate fondant had a wonderfully gooey middle but after the brilliance of the main courses, the bay leaf ice cream and sour cherry macaron paired with the fondant paled a little in comparison.
The best wine of the night came in the form of the Black Muscat ‘Elysium’. The wine was sweet, rich and quite honestly could have been a delicious dessert course by itself. A very tasty end to a deliciously satisfying meal.
1 Devonshire Gardens,
Glasgow G12 0UX
Words: Lucy Foley