Review: Public House by Nico

Nico Simeone’s latest venture elevates British pub fare to the highest echelon.

A characterful space decked out in a cosy yet tasteful fashion, Public House by Nico would look just as much at home in the rolling countryside as it does in Glasgow’s West End.

Unlike Simeone’s other restaurants, which are based around tasting menus, the food at Public House is designed for  sharing, so you can order as much or as little as you like. While we attempted to whittle down our choices, a dish of homemade ricotta, salsa verde and rice crackers arrived, a beautiful contrast of smooth, soft, sharp and crisp and a sign of good things to come.

Next up were the Arbroath smokie croquettes, which were bursting at the seams with succulent, smoked fish. The crisp pork jowl with piccalilli is delivered with a theatrical reveal, the cloche lifted to allow thick plumes of savoury smoke to billow out across the table, and the pork itself was equally as impressive.

The ox cheek and bone marrow pie was as warming and satisfying as it sounds, and the flat iron steak was beautifully cooked, although all at our table agreed the chimichurri sauce was slightly too acidic. We finish off our meal with a refreshing and zingy coconut and passionfruit panna cotta, and a decadent slab of salted caramel sticky toffee pudding that really hits the spot.

333 Great Western Road, Glasgow

publichousebynico.co.uk

Gary McIntyre

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