Review: 83 Hanover Street – Edinburgh

He’s already struck gold with 99 Hanover Street, but Juan José Castillo Castro has turned his sights further along the street with new restaurant and wine bar 83 Hanover Street.

Incorporating his Chilean heritage with Scottish produce, the menu at 83 Hanover is full of flavour. From the bites section, the croquettes, filled with tender braised lamb, were first class comfort food, lifted by the accompanying slightly spicy lima beans, while the fried calamari was perfectly crisp.

Of the larger plates, our favourite was the charred octopus, cooked to perfection and served with white bean escabeche. However, the meltingly soft beef short rib was also fantastic, long braised in a flavoursome marinade with hints of honey. The purple causa potato puree was perhaps a little too fridge-cold, but the Chilean salad added a fresh edge. A dish of creamy burrata added a much needed delicacy to the hearty meats, and the addition of green apple gave the dish plenty of zing. We paired this with a carafe of very reasonably priced orange Vermentino.

The indulgent desserts bring about childlike glee. Nutmeg scented tres leches donuts have the perfect balance of soft and crisp and the manjar ice cream sandwich is an indulgence everyone deserves to treat themselves to.

I can definitely see myself coming back to sit at the bar with a plate of their charcuterie – served ‘til midnight – to taste my way through the wine list.

83 Hanover Street, Edinburgh

www.83hanoverstreet.com

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