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Wedgwood, 267 Canongate, Edinburgh EH8 8BQ
PRICE RANGE: around £50 for dinner for two, excluding drinks
On a Tuesday night Wedgwood was humming with happy diners, and we were shown to a table with a great view of the kitchen. This meant I was fortunate enough to see splendid dishes on the pass as they had finishing touches added.
The restaurant has a smart and established feel, with black tables and grey accents. Light shades add a sophisticated splash of colour.
I ordered the Sound of Mull diver-caught scallops, creatively paired with cauliflower korma and pineapple. This eastern twist created a divine sweet and salty combination, set off by the zing of capers. Jeremy chose wonderfully tender rare wild pigeon, served pink and accompanied by haggis balls, neeps and tatties.
A palate refresher of ginger beer lime coulis with raspberry sorbet and ginger increased our anticipation for the next course.
Venison was beautifully cooked, served rare with flavoursome black pudding mash, creamed cabbage and purée squash. An exquisitely tart sour rhubarb and rosemary jus complimented the meat perfectly. I did not, however, take to the deep fried haggis balls which were quite rich.
Jeremy’s Borders lamb was a well-cooked and beautifully tender braised neck with belly meatballs, fresh peas, mint and pancetta lardons. Jeremy particularly enjoyed the different textures of the lamb.
My dessert was a triumph. Coconut panna cotta with beetroot sorbet and crunchy cumin meringue. The subtle, sweet flavour of the coconut combined with the earthiness of the beetroot and was set off further by sweet cicely pesto – locally foraged, of course.
By Sue Hitchen
www.wedgwoodtherestaurant.co.uk
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