‘Dine with Stuart Muir’ glows out from a wall of giant moss on the approach and we have high expectations for the menu. Warm salad of Borders oxtail is delicious with the flavours of very tender oxtail combined with sharp pickled onion and pea puree, flat parsley and the unusual addition of a deep fried crispy Loch Fyne oyster. Ceviche of rock bass is wonderfully tender and sweet, combining flavours of apple, lime puree, crunchy gingerbread melba and coconut. Roast loin of venison is served deliciously rare, with a rich pate of braised haunch, wild mushrooms and sweet braised red cabbage. Braised Borders shoulder of lamb (cooked for 10 hours) is a delight and the sautéed kale is crunchy and full of flavour. Stewed apple and sultana crumble with  creamy custard is only surpassed by sticky toffee pudding served with a salted caramel sauce.

By Sue Hitchens