Review: Gloriosa

Gloriosa interior

Gloriosa is the latest venture from chef Rosie Healey, formerly of Alchemilla, offering up continental wines and the tastes of the Mediterranean. We peruse the menu over some of Gloriosa’s signature focaccia, pillowlike cubes of salty, garlicky goodness, and moreish roast pecans. The dishes here are made for sharing, perfect to graze from in the company of a peppery Cotes du Rhone.

The presentation of the food is simple yet striking: it’s clear that a lot of thought has gone into the dishes here. We opt for two cold and two hot dishes from a menu that has something for everyone. The smoked haddock carpaccio is perfectly zingy, with fennel seeds and flowers delivering bursts of flavour right up until the last morsel. A salad of Jerusalem artichoke is satisfyingly sweet and earthy, with hefty shavings of Parmesan providing a savoury contrast.

Next arrives a steaming dish of parpadelle amatriciana, cooked to a perfect al dente bite, enveloping nuggets of crispy, savoury pig cheek within. Our final main dish covers all the taste sensations, with bitter chicory, tangy pickled clams, savoury salt cod and sweet sultanas.

Despite all of the wonderful, complex flavours that we enjoyed, the dish that left the greatest impression was the simple panna cotta – elegant, rich and served with a deeply-flavoured caramel sauce. It’s the best I have ever eaten.

1321 Argyle St, Glasgow G3 8AB
Gary McIntyre

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