Making brown butter, or buerre noisette, is one of those techniques that chefs love but home cooks seem to steer clear of because it sounds tricky. Believe me, it’s really not complicated, and the more often you do it, the more confident you become at judging the right time to take the pan off the heat. It’s such an easy way to add a rich nuttiness to this creamy soup, and it smells incredible.
Preheat the grill. Place a large saucepan over a medium heat and add the oil and butter. When the butter has melted, add the onion and garlic and cook for 5 minutes. Add the sage leaves and cook for a further minute. Meanwhile, prepare the cauliflower by removing the leaves and separating the florets. Roughly chop them into small pieces of the same size. Add the chopped cauliflower and the stock to the pan. Season with salt and pepper, bring to the boil and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the milk and cream, and simmer for a further 8 minutes. Meanwhile, make the brown butter. Put the butter into a small saucepan and place it over a high heat. When it begins to brown, remove the pan from the heat and add the truffle oil and sage leaves. Stir well and leave to cool. Now make the toasts. Lay the baguette slices on a baking tray and grill for 2–3 minutes, or until lightly golden on one side. Turn each slice over, then sprinkle liberally with the grated cheese. Replace under the grill for a further 4 minutes, or until the cheese is melted and golden. When the cauliflower is cooked, blend the mixture with a stick blender until smooth. Check the seasoning and adjust as necessary. Ladle the soup into bowls and spoon over the brown butter and sage leaves. Serve with the cheesy toasts on the side. If you warm the stock in a saucepan over a medium heat while you prep the onions, garlic and cauliflower, it will come to the boil quicker when you add it to the soup pan, therefore speeding up the whole process.
Cauliflower soup with brown butter and cheesy toasts
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From Gordon Ramsay Quick and Delicious, Hodder & Stoughton, £25. Photography Louise Hagger
